An unabashed celebration of fancy-coloured stones, the Winston Candy collection by Harry Winston satisfies a craving for colour. Inspired by archival sketches from the 1950s and 1960s, the presentation of cocktail rings brings together a pick-and-mix of jewels that have been singled out for their unrivalled vibrancy. A sugar rush for the eyes, a 17.48-carat rose spinel sits at the heart of one dazzling ring, surrounded by 12 cabochon sapphires, eight pear-shaped tsavorite garnets, four pear-shaped pink sapphires and 44 round-brilliant diamonds. Almost good enough to eat.

Dedicated to the symbiotic relationship of light and gemstones, De Beers’ The Alchemist of Light collection pushes the boundaries of its diamond expertise. Necklaces and earrings take inspiration from the visual illusions and refractions that light can throw when shone through different mediums. A case of art imitating art, the maison’s innovative design is inspired by the Op-art movement founded by Victor Vasarely.

Chaumet’s Déferlante necklace, meanwhile, mimics the fluidity of water – sweeping across the décolletage like a crashing wave. A unique fil-couteau (knife-edge) technique sets the diamonds on ultra-fine strips of white gold, allowing light to flow through the stones uninterrupted as if they are floating. A feat of design, crafted at the brand’s 12 Vendôme address in Paris, the piece places combinations of pear-shaped, emerald, square, brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds at daring angles to achieve such a dynamic effect.

Piaget looks to tropical climes to inform its Palm Sensations and Sunny Side of Life rings. Together, they conjure the vibrant colours of a sun-drenched landscape. For the former, a 9.75-carat Colombian emerald is encircled by an arrangement of baguette-cut diamonds – a combination that references the verdant fauna that lines idyllic coastlines from Palm Springs to Monaco. In tandem, a 4.27-carat fancy vivid yellow diamond illuminates the Sunny Side of Life ring, radiating warmth with rays of brilliant, princess and baguette-cut diamonds placed together for maximum sparkle – a feat requiring 120 hours of craftsmanship.

Like all art, high jewellery is a labour of love. David Morris took two years to source 168 carats of Zambian emeralds for the Monsoon necklace, seeking out those of the deepest green. A further three months were spent perfecting the design, before it was placed in the hands of the maison’s master craftspeople at its Bond Street atelier for a yet another three months. The result? An exquisite collar design, which pairs geometric diamonds and curved cabochon emeralds in sublime harmony.