The soft sizzle of melting butter; the promising bubble of a saucepan; the warm smell of baked apples that – just for a second – take you back to your childhood. Whether you’re whipping up dinner for one or feeding the whole family, a homecooked meal is always a little bit special – and with fresh, hearty ingredients, the magic begins to happen long before dinner is served. Food writer Emily Ezekiel shares three warming, seasonal recipes (photographed by Lizzie Mayson) that are packed full of flavour and sure to impress.
Warm Winter Salad
This deceptively simple and splendidly colourful dish looks spectacular on the plate – and is every bit as satisfying on the palate. Serves 4 as a starter
2 tbsp butter
300g Brussels sprouts, halved lengthwise
1 head of radicchio
100g blackberries
1 blood orange
3 sticks of celery plus leaves
100g blue cheese
For the dressing:
1 tbsp white miso
1 clove of garlic, grated
1 tsp honey
1⁄2 tsp Aleppo pepper or chilli flakes
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp cold water
Start by making the dressing – simply add all the ingredients to a clean jam jar, screw the lid on and give it a really good shake until all mixed together. Try it and adjust to taste, then set to one side.
Place a large frying pan over a high heat, add the butter, then add the Brussels sprouts, cut side down. Fry for 3–5 minutes or until they are really golden and starting to caramelise. Give the pan a good toss and continue to fry for a further 3 minutes.
Peel off the leaves of the radicchio and arrange on a large serving platter or salad bowl. Slice the blackberries in half, then peel the orange and slice into rounds. Slice the celery sticks on the bias and toss the pieces in with the other salad vegetables. Scatter the celery leaves on the top, crumble the blue cheese over, toss in the fried sprouts and drizzle with the dressing. Eat straight away.
Butternut Squash Risotto
In the icy grip of winter, heartier meals provide welcome comfort and sustenance – and this crowd-pleaser is no exception. Serves 4 as a main
1kg butternut or acorn squash, cleaned
1 lemon
1 head of garlic, sliced in half widthways
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
4 tbsp olive oil
1 handful of fresh sage leaves
1L chicken or vegetable stock
4 shallots
3 sticks of celery
300g Arborio rice
300ml dry white wine
60g butter
100g Parmesan cheese, plus extra to serve
Preheat oven to 180 ̊c/gas mark 4. Using a sharp knife, halve the squash lengthways (no need to peel) and scoop out the seeds. Slice into rough 3cm chunks.
Add the squash to a roasting tray with the juice and zest of a lemon, the halved garlic and chilli flakes. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle over 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Roast for 45 minutes, tossing everything halfway through. At the same time, add the sage leaves, and mix together well.
Midway through the 45 minutes, start the risotto base by pouring the stock into a saucepan and placing it over a medium heat, keeping it at a simmer.
Peel and finely chop the shallots and celery. Add the remaining olive oil to a heavy pan and place over a medium heat. Add the chopped veg and fry gently until softened.
Add the rice to the vegetables and toast for a couple of minutes. Pour in the wine and stir continuously until it is totally absorbed.
Start adding the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring until each addition has been absorbed. This should take about 15 minutes.
Remove the roasting tray from the oven. Squeeze out the garlic cloves from their skins, then add to a blender with half the squash and whizz until smooth.
Pour the blended squash into the risotto, then fold in the remaining diced squash and any sticky bits from the tray, keeping some of the crispy sage leaves to one side.
Stir in the butter and Parmesan, and season to taste. Cover the pan, turn off the heat and leave to sit for 2 minutes.
Stir and spoon into bowls, topping with the sage leaves and a little extra Parmesan.
Burnt Caramel and Apple Galette
This French-style rustic tart makes for a mouthwatering finale to any winter meal. As a finishing touch, simply add a scoop – or two – of your favourite ice cream. Serves 4 as a dessert
For the pastry:
175g plain flour
2 tbsp ground almonds
Pinch of flaky sea salt
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 blood orange, zest
120g unsalted butter, very cold and diced
15ml ice-cold water
For the filling:
3 apples of your choice
50g light brown soft sugar
1 tsp vanilla-bean paste
1 blood orange, juice
1⁄2 tsp ground cinnamon
1⁄2 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp corn flour
100g chopped hazelnuts
1 egg, beaten
2 tsp demerara sugar
For the caramel sauce:
80ml water
250g golden caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla-bean extract
120ml double (heavy) cream
35g unsalted butter
Large pinch of flaky sea salt
Preheat oven to 180 ̊c/gas mark 4. To make the crust, mix the flour, almonds, salt, sugar and orange zest in a bowl. Add the butter and rub it in until you have a crumbly mixture. Make a well in the centre and add the cold water, a little at a time, mixing as you go – you might not need all the water; you just want the dough to begin to bind.
Tip the dough onto a lightly floured surface and gently knead for a few seconds to bring it together. Wrap in cling film and chill for an hour or until firm.
To make the filling, finely slice the apples – no need to peel. Add to a mixing bowl with the sugar, vanilla-bean paste, orange juice, cinnamon, ginger and corn our, then set aside. Preheat the oven.
Once the pastry has chilled, place on a lightly floured surface. Roll out into a circle 30cm in diameter, moving the pastry every few rolls so it doesn’t stick. Transfer to a lined baking tray and sprinkle over the chopped hazelnuts, leaving a 5cm border around the edge.
Arrange the sliced apples however you like. Roll the border up around the apples, shaping it roughly. Chill for 20 minutes.
While the tart is chilling, make the caramel. Put a non-stick pan over a high heat, pour in the water, add the sugar and bring to the boil.
Once the sugar has all melted, the syrup is golden brown and bubbles have formed all over the surface, take the pan off the heat. Mix the vanilla-bean extract into the double cream and pour it into the pan. Whisk in with the butter and add a good pinch of sea salt.
Take the galette from the fridge, brush the edges with the beaten egg, and sprinkle over the demerara sugar. Bake for 30 minutes or until the pastry is crisp, then remove and drizzle it with the sauce.
