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8 of the Rarest Fragrances and Ingredients You Need to Know
Feature: Long Read
Words by Jennifer George, Nasreen Osman
Acclaimed perfumers travel far and wide to source rare ingredients from all four corners of the world. For while aesthetically-pleasing bottles and the storytelling behind them can render a prized perfume all the more special, it's the rare and often elusive ingredients within a crafted blend that can instantly transform an ordinary scent into an extraordinary one be it the ingredients that are scarcely found or those that require intricate and often timely extraction. So between frankincense and oud, saffron and amber, discover the most precious fragrances and ingredients to elevate your perfume wardrobe.
Orris butter
Fresh, woody yet delicately floral
Combining powdery, woody and violet notes, orris is an instantly recognisable ingredient. Yet it’s among the rarest in the world of perfumery. The material obtained from the rhizomes of the iris plant – known as orris butter – requires between three and five years to mature before it can be used, it is extremely precious, with some varieties costing more than three times as much as gold.
Maison Margiela Dancing On The Moon Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £165
Enriched with powerful and powdery iris, this light yet long-lasting fragrance somehow evokes nostalgia (with jasmine and musk) yet a fresh, modern feeling at the same time. A feel good, smile-inducing scent.
Frankincense
Sweet, spicy, and woody
Frankincense is an aroma you might recognise from incense – in other words, that distinctive earthy and aromatic scent with spicy undertones. It’s been used for 5,000 years, yet these days the trees that produce Frankincense (Boswellia trees) are scarce making it a highly rare ingredient. To this day, Oman’s Dhofar region produces what is considered to be the highest grade of frankincense in the world.
Czech & Speake Frankincense & Myrrh Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £160
Frankincense takes the lead in this aromatic fragrance so you would expect it to be warm and cossetting. However, hits of citrus (orange and lemon) add an unexpected zesty twist to the smoky yet sharp quality of myrhh, resulting in a blend of contrasts that is equal parts rich and refreshing.
Oud
Woody, ranging from sweet to earthy
Oud is one of the most expensive fragrance ingredients in the world. Very powerful, oud oil is in fact created when a fungus attacks the bark of the aquilaria tree, and then the ingredient is produced by the tree as a defence mechanism. It’s estimated that only 2% of aquilaria trees will create oud oil, which makes it all the more expensive – with some varieties of oud priced at around £75,000 per kilogram.
Maison Crivelli Oud Cadenza Extrait de Parfum, 50ml, £220
As the name suggests, oud is the star of the show for Maison Crivelli's delectable olfactive creation. Exclusive to Harrods, the recognisable ingredient is sprinkled with cinnamon and saffron and sweetened with a date and toasted sugar accord. The result is a sophisticated caramel scent, good enough to eat.
Cardamom
Spicy, citrus-woody notes
A rare example of a spice that manages to smell both hot and cold, warm and spicy, cardamom has long been prized as a vital addition to perfume. But appealing as it is, it’s also the third costliest spice in the world. It’s usually grown in the Ghat mountains in India and has to be harvested by hand – making it all the more rare and expensive.
Xerjoff Starlight Eau de Parfum, 50ml, £238
Inspired by the cosmos, this fragrance is both sparkling and mysterious as a night sky, balancing the distinctive note of cardamom with comforting almonds and clove, alluring cedar wood and citrusy bergamot. Expect to turn many heads when you wear this one.
Saffron
Gourmand, deep and leather-like
Due to the way it’s harvested, some of the varieties of saffron can cost almost £8,000 per kilogram. It’s often referred to as ‘red gold’ and is among some of the most ancient ingredients used in perfumes. With soft and earthy notes, it adds warmth and spice to fragrance blends without ever being too overwhelming or strong.
Nishane Suède Et Safran Extrait de Parfum, 50ml, £215
If you've ever used saffron in your cooking, you'll know how it can make something subtly but recognisably delicious. This scent embodies just that, with warm suede and creamy musk meeting saffron to result in a gentle and gorgeous blend (with serious staying power).
Cacao Bean
Warm, spicy gourmand
Naturally warm, cacao bean is equally sweet and spicy and renowned for its gourmand scent. With the versatile play between a bitter allure and a creamy sweetness, it’s a sheer pleasure on the nose.
Fueguia 1833 Xocoatl Perfume, 100ml, £329
One for the gourmand perfume lovers out there. Fueguia 1833 pairs cacao with vanilla to create a sweet (but not at all sickly) scent that is as warm and enticing as a freshly baked cake.
Amber
Oriental, floral, and sweet
Warm and sweet, amber usually consists of a combination of different ingredients given how rare and how long it takes to form in its natural state. Usually in synthetic form, amber is blended with different ingredients, such as vanilla, tonka bean, and patchouli, and varies in its aroma depending on the creation.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian 175 Anniversary Edition Reflets d'ambre Eau de Parfum, 70ml, £230
Time to make space for another Maison Francis Kurkdjian creation on your dressing table. Powered by precious amber plus the equally coveted floral jasmine, this is a soft and stunning take on this famed ingredient.
Jasmine
Floral, powdery, fruity
Jasmine is thought to be one of the world's rarest floral extracts. And while many perfumes do indeed harness this precious floral aroma for its fruity, powdery scent, it’s also one of the most expensive ingredients you can find on the back of your bottles. This is simply because of the amount of Jasmine flowers – approximately 2,000 pounds of the flower produce one single pound of oil – that is needed to produce it.
Gucci Flora Gorgeous Jasmine Eau de Parfum, 100ml, £135
Housed in its wonderfully kitsch bottle, this bright and beautiful scent is packed to the brim with Grandiflorum Jasmine, settled with sensual sandalwood and given a light lift with magnolia. The result is a unique yet recognisable take on jasmine.
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